Kathmandu: Mad Max, Smog, and Cremations

I spent my first day in Nepal sightseeing in Kathmandu. Upon landing, I was immediately greeted by Prem, a friend of my fatherโ€™s (because everyoneโ€™s parents casually have pals all over the world, right?) At first glance, Kathmandu seemed to have this dream-like haze about it, which I quickly realized was just smog. I was…

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