Day 5: Sinuwa to Deurali.

I basically floated today. My legs no longer shake when I stand, and I propel myself up steps even when they’re up to my hips. My new baseline is uncomfortable and slightly sore, and I’ve learned to be happy with that.

Granted, I’m fueled by coffee and Advil- but I also think my body is accustomed to getting beat up every day.

Yesterday Harrison reminded me that our bodies are actually stronger than we think they are. He told me that anytime we think we are too tired or in too much pain, it’s actually all in our heads.

Of course, when he tried to convince me that the pain of my toenail falling off was also mental and that I could will my toenail to stay on, I really had to draw the line.

That shit hurts, and I’m going to keep taping my toenail to my toe until I’m ready to tear it off.

Anyways, even with my throbbing toenail, we arrived in Deurali fairly early. We had made a six hour journey into 4.5 hours in true Pauline and Gambu fashion.

Nevertheless, all of the guest houses in the village were already full and I didn’t have a room. Gambu, crafty as he is, arranged for me to sleep in the store of the lodge, next to the open space where all of the Nepali porters and guides slept together.

I shrugged and said, “no problem.” It’s amazing how much you stop caring at some point.

Fortunately, after chatting with another guide, Gambu found an empty bed in a tiny room, made from plywood and stone. I would be sharing the room with Nick, a lovely British doctor in his 70s. We laughed at our awkward introduction, neither of us had had a roommate like one another before, but I assured him that I didn’t snore and made a great roomie.

I spent the rest of the day sitting on a bench outside, basking in the sun, listening to the waterfalls, and resting my legs.

Tomorrow I’m climbing to Machhapuchhre Basecamp and Annapurna Basecamp- the peak of my trek. It’s a big day, and I couldn’t be more ready for it.

Bring it on.

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